Peace Canoe from Getting Started In Boats

Hey Everybody,

There's a great blog about building and launching a Peace Canoe. Here is the link if you want to check it out.

If you're interested in building the Salt Bay Skiff, also from the Getting Started In Boats series, it's a good idea to familiarize yourself with the Peace Canoe articles as there are some similarities in construction. One major one is in the construction of side panels for the hull. In the Salt Bay Skiff article, Chris and Ana Franklin use the same methods for building their panels (more fully described in the Peace Canoe article--Part One) with the exception of using epoxy to glue their butt straps instead of polyurethane adhesive.

Karen

Comments

[Evan]

I just want to thank you for this site. I'm currently finishing up my first boat a modest pdracer and I'm already planning my second the salt bay skiff.

[Jeff]

I just spent the weekend starting the salt bay skiff with my adult son. We've gotten to the point where we're ready to put the bottom on and looking forward we have a question. It looks like the butt strap reinforcing the joint on the bottom is going to fall right at the location of the forward frame. Since these are all glued up and cured I'm trying to think of a solution. Did we miss something? Or does these two items conflict? There's no solution in the dimensiona given.
By the way, we thoroughly enjoyed the weekend and the lines of the skiff are lovely. Thanks, Jeff

[Karen Wales]

Dear Jeff,

You're right on target. The boat bottom's butt strap (say that ten times...) should provide a landing for your forward frame. That's exactly what happened when I photo-documented Chris Franklin's construction process.
Later, you'll see that, together, the butt strap and frame provide a solid foundation for the mast step.

[Chris Franklin]

Hi Jeff,

I apologize -- that's a detail that just doesn't show up in magazine-size drawings, and it ought to have been noted in the text. If it's any comfort, I've put that frame in high, too, and I had no excuse!

My solution was to clamp a couple of planks across the bottom, with about a 2" wide gap between them roughly centered over the frame. Then a router sitting on the two boards, with its bit hanging down between them, made short work of cutting 3/8" off the bottom of the frame to clear the butt strap.

Lacking a router, I'd use a handsaw. I'd mark the 3/8" depth on the frame, then cut down close to it carefully (about amidships) with a series of closely-spaced cuts and chisel out the wood between, until I had a gap wide enough to lay the tip of my saw flat, and saw carefully along the line. I'd chisel the last 1/2" to avoid scoring the sides. Don't forget the bevel on the bottom of the frame, but epoxy will forgive any gaps.

For those who haven't yet run into this, when first dry-fitting the forward frame to the sides, hold a scrap of the butt strap plywood on top of the frame as a spacer, and line THAT up to the chine. That way there will be room for the butt strap between the frame and the hull bottom.

[Bob C]

Karen ,

Is the LYS thread dead ?

I have just started building one and noticed that nothing has been posted since last year. Here is my blog with photos of the progress.

http://www.millersfalls.blogspot.com/

[Bob C]

Karen ,

Is the LYS thread dead ?

I have just started building one and noticed that nothing has been posted since last year. Here is my blog with photos of the progress.

http://www.millersfalls.blogspot.com/

[Perry Degener]

Any creative thoughts about how we can mitigate the effect of high fuel costs on future interest in restoring the wooden classics?