Lumberyard Skiff Questions, Part II

Thanks for suffering our transition to this new weblog service, folks.

Here are answers to questions that have accumulated over the past week. Along with the anwers, I'll scatter some photos about. Click the thumbnails to enlarge them. Hope these help:

1) bcoyote67 asks whether he may have a preview of the painting instructions, as he may beat us to the finish line, so to speak, with his Lumberyard Skiff. I can't do that comprehensively here. What I can tell you is to prepare carefully, and to follow the manufacturer's directions for the paint system you use. Any marine enamel would be appropriate for this boat.

Also: We've covered painting at various times in the history of the magazine. Have a look at our online index at www.woodenboat.com. Order appropriate back issues. Or, perhaps better, order the book called Painting and Varnishing, published by WoodenBoat, from the WoodenBoat Store. It's a compilation of WB articles on the topic.

2) jimd46902 asks why the materials list calls for filling and fairing additives for the epoxy. There are two reasons. First, with most epoxies you need to use a glue filler in order to thicken the runny raw epoxy to the consistency of adhesive. Glue filler is stronger than lightweight fairing filler. We suggest fairing filler in the list because it's handy stuff for patching imperfections in the topsides and elsewhere before painting. If you use the glue filler for that task, the stuff won't sand so easily. In fact, it will sand at a markedly different rate than the wood, causing a further imperfection.

3) Imaginatus is right: You do not want to turn the blade of a bandsaw around. I don't know where that thought crept into the discussion, but don't do it, for the reasons outlined. Bandsaw bearings are designed only for one direction. Use a drawknife and a spokeshave to make you stem if you don't have a bandsaw. (Maynard's off on a little midsummer break, but when he gets back we'll take some photos of him doing this operation, and post them here.)

4) Currie: I don't know the exact weight of the skiff. Couple hundred pounds is the best I can do for you on this Friday afternoon. As stated in another post, it's not a cartoppable boat--unless you drive, say, a Hummer, and are unusually tall and strong. Otherwise, save your back (and your car) and move the boat on a trailer.
--Matt Murphy

Comments

[george cripps]

Is there anyone in the U.K. planning to do this project?

[IceCycle]

It appears in the picure above, that there is a buildup of the sides just before the stem. Is this more for cosmetics? Could the sides be built using cedar? It suprised me that cedar was a bit cheaper than the white pine. Also the cedar is 1x12" so I do not believe to buildup would be needed.

Just curious.

[Moose]

Cartoppable: I am tall and strong but my wife has a problem with her 100#s

[KJ Wylie]

Hi,just so you know,side planking in 16 foot lengths can be found at Home Depot,not cheap,but it is clear white pine...10"x16' is about $45.00,give or take.So for those who can't find a lumber yard....just a thought.K.J.Wylie

[A. Bowles]

I would like to use marine plywood for the boat bottom instead of the planking. While it detours from the boat "look" and original concept it would make for faster construction and perhaps a little less weight. What do you think about 1/4" marine plywood?

[David Adkins]

Where are the plans for the oars?

[jimmie lee]

I think 1/4" plywood for the bottom of the LYS, to Me is too thin. I would not go any thinner than 5/8" for the size of the boat. The bottom takes a beating when beaching her. That's My opinion. Good luck on your project.